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Genoa and Venice

a historical detour...

So if you haven't figured it out yet, there's a story I'm interested in. It's the story of Constantinople, one of the greatest cities in history and its relationship to cities such as Genoa and Venice.

Constantinople fell in 1453 to the Ottoman Turks. It was not necessarily a sudden event. The Byzantine Empire had been in decline for several hundred years and was crippled in particular by the sack of the city in 1204 and also the black death in the 1300's. For hundreds of years before, Genoa and Venice had quarters in the city where the housed their ships, wares and merchants. Venice was modeled after Constantinople, the church, the imperial culture, almost everything. St Marks is modeled after Haghia Sophia in modern day Istanbul and was designed by a Greek architect.

The riches in the Middle East and the Black Sea led to riches elsewhere, namely the Silk Road to China. The reason we know about the Silk Road is because a man by the name of Marco Polo from Venice was imprisoned between one of the bloody battles between Venetian and Genoese merchants in the Black Sea around the 13th century or 14th? SSC_0170.jpg
Where Marco Polo was imprisoned in Genoa.
Genoa and Venice lost a lot of ships, men and money fighting trading wars with each other.

Venice has Saint Marks, Genoa has Saint Matthews, Venice is on the East Coast, Genoa is on the West Coast, well I think you get the picture. The patron saint was so important to the Venetians, that they stole the body of St Mark from Alexandria Egypt and surrounded the body in pigs so the Muslims would not detect it. Having a Saint was the equivalent of divine power and Venice used this power to the hilt especially in the 1200's when they diverted the Fourth Crusade to Constantinople where they murdered, pillaged and plundered their way through the entire city. St Marks in Venice today is full of treasures from the Eastern city and much of church is covered in gold, undoubtedly recycled from much of the gold in Constantinople. It was not until recently that John Paul II had some of the relics returned from the Vatican to the Eastern Orthodox church.

All this to say that with the power of the Turks rising in the East in the 12-1400's the Greek Byzantine Empire was at the mercy of not only the Turks but also power hungry merchants from Venice and Genoa. This also culminated in an epic 2 month battle in April and May of 1453, the city of Constantinople which had withstood attacks over 20 times from Attila the Hun, Arab Muslims and others would have its ultimate test. Brave soldiers from Venice and Genoa each fought side by side with Greek soldiers though most of the West fled the scene and did not defend the city. The Venetian Senate met for months about whether to send aid to the sieged city, and they were still meeting when the city fell.- suspiciously lethargic response.

A small plaza in Genoa off the beaten path and almost forgotten about today is named after one of the bravest generals in history, Giuliani Giustiani. A statue in Athens by the Metropolitan church of Constantine XI Paleologus stands as a monument to the brave stance he took at the breach in the wall in Constantinople. He was last seen fighting side by side with his men in the breach of the city's wall. Before the siege started a phrase is still remembered. "ELATE NA THN PARETAI" ("COME AND TAKE HER") is what Byzantine Emperor Constantine XI Paleologus said to the Turkish Sultan Mehmet II upon his demand to surrender Constantinople.

As I travel toward the end of my trip, to that once great city, you will see the gap in the wall where the city fell with the last emperor fighting bravely.

History sidetrack!!!

Posted by iaremia 11:21 AM Comments (0)

Cinque Terre pics and more

just a couple

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Posted by iaremia 8:51 AM Comments (2)

Cinque Terre and Genova

living like a gypsy and a king

A few things about Italy.
-Pedestrians have no rights
-the favorite phrases of people here "dime" (tell me) and "va bene" (okay).
-I had a Sicilian ask me if I was from Italy while I was staying in Rome...that was the biggest compliment Ive had so far. My accent is getting good. too bad im leaving now.

So when I got to Cinque Terre, I had no place to stay. I ended up setting up a shelter next to a rock wall in a vineyard. As soon as I set up, I had no real camping gear just a bed sheet, some dogs began barking and I quickly ran back down the hill to another vineyard and set up once again. Everything seemed fine until I began to hear a rustling in the bushes next to me and it made the sounds of a ferret. I decided Id try to take a Tylenol PM and sleep it off. An hour later, I was still unable to sleep and the temp dropped consistently. I decided to find a spot back in the town. After finding a relatively sheltered porch, I attempted to sleep to the sound of cars speedin up and down the street below me and drunk Australian tourists. A couple hours of half drugged sleep and numb legs, I decided to make for the coastal trail at 4:30am. I strolled past cats staring at me, the vagrant, to the tune of an eerie silence in the dark alleyways. After,I walked up to the ominously dark coastal path of the Via d'Amore...an enchanting hike for most couples during the daylight, but an eering darkness covered path with 200ft of cliff dropping off into the breaking waters below. I figured this was a good place to brush my teeth.
There are 5 towns in Cinque Terre spread out over several miles of terrain. I reached town 4 by 9am. Exhausted, I looked for a room. Then I ran into Dylan and Amy, my friends from the Athens train to Korinth!SSC_0390.jpg

They were the couple travelling for 9 months all over the world. They sold their condo after they got married and decided to travel off the profits, pretty cool.

Cinque Terre was amazing. Beautiful harbor, trails and people. I left the next afternoon for Genova.

Posted by iaremia 4:40 AM Comments (3)

Venice and after

Tales of a homeless wanderer

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(Bronze horses from Constantine's Hippodrome stolen from Constantinople by the Venetians in the 4th Crusade (1204 AD)

I was officially homeless last night. After running through Venice for the day, I tried to get across Italy before nightfall. When I arrived in RioMaggiore, the first town in Cinque Terre, it was 9pm and all the rooms were sold out...
Ill tell you what happens in a little while. Im off to Genoa soon where I hope to have more time to write down the details. I am alive though...

here are some pics to keep you entertained...
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the pigeons were out in force at st Marks
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as was the flag of St Marks...
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view from the hostel across the Grand Canal (I like my tripod)
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this guy really loved the pigeons...
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classical concerts going on around me, amazing venice, but i could only take a day of it...

Posted by iaremia 7:48 AM Comments (1)

Ravenna

New Capital of the Western Roman Empire and then some pics...

I am now in Ravenna. In 402, the Emperor Honorius moved the capital of the western Roman empire from Rome to Ravenna. At the time, Ravenna was strategically better because it was farther north, situated on the Adriatic sea in good trade routes, surrounded by marshes for defense and all around just better than Rome.

The barbarian kings took over the Western Roman Empire during that time...see Peter Heathers book "the Fall of the Roman Empire" to explain the causes. The barbarian kings ruled the Western Empire from here in Ravenna. In the 500s, Emperor Justinian came from Constantinople and retook Ravenna and most of Italy back in the name of the Roman Empire. Confused yet? Well, all this to say that, there are the best preserved Byzantine mosaics in the world in this city...next time Ill upload a few of the shots. The churches and their mosaics are simply some of the most beautiful pieces of art I have ever seen.

Ravenna reminds me of where i went to school, UCDavis. Everyone rides their bikes around and they let tourists rent a bike for free! I have my sporty yellow bike and I am riding around in style. I met a great French couple today, Joelle and Eric and they bought me a cappucino and we talked Bush, politics and life. They asked a lot of questions about Americans and they say that French media does not think Americans to be very smart. I was trying to help out the team a bit.

Ciao for now! Check out some of these pics...

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Me at St Peters Basilica, Rome
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I was fortunate to get a nice shot (I did not flash, even though everyone was using their flash...)
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South of Naples in Sorrento...everyone uses scooters here
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a statue in Sorrento
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I met Antonio feeding pigeons in Sorrento
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A courtyard suriving from 70 AD! in Herculaneum
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not a bad spot to spend the afternoon, i took a bus from Sorrento (crowded place) to a small little harbor called Nerano
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you can see why some of the emperors used to come here...
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frescoe of Alexander the Great found in Pompeii dating back to 70AD
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Samuel from Ghana, the guy I met in the Naples McDonalds...

Posted by iaremia 5:33 AM Comments (4)

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